Are the kids due a bedroom upgrade? Want to create something incredible for them that will provide plenty of storage and can double as a fort?
Follow this guide as we show you how to easily build a bed that you can alter to suit your needs and spruce up the bedroom with a twist of fun!
Warning: Ensure the bed is sturdy and safe before using.
You will need:
Kallax Shelves
Plywood or MDF boards
Mattress
Screws
Screwdriver
Saw
Measuring Tape
Level
Pencil
Drill
Step 1: Measure the mattress
Measure the dimensions of your mattress to determine how many Kallax units you will need. Sketch out a basic plan of the layout, taking into account the dimensions to the Kallax units and the mattress.
The Kallax range is very versatile so you can play around and design your bed just how you like it. You can choose the layout of the bed to match how many shelves you need, or the height you like so it’s up to you to determine how many Kallax shelves you need.
Step 2: Take a Family Trip to IKEA!
Once you know the layout you are going for, it’s time to pack the kids in the car and take a trip to your local IKEA to grab the Kallax units (and some décor!).
Step 3: Assemble Kallax Units
Assemble the Kallax shelving units according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Position them in the layout you have chosen. Make sure they are sturdy and level. You may want to consider adding extra stability by attaching them to the wall.
Step 4: Measure and Cut Plywood or MDF Board
Use the plywood or MDF board to create a platform for the mattress to sit on. Measure and cut the boards to match the dimensions of the Kallax units when arranged. The boards should sit securely on top of the Kallax units.
Step 5: Create Bed Frame
Place the cut boards on top of the Kallax units to create the bed frame. Screw through the top of the boards into the Kallax units below. Be careful of where you are drilling so the screws are not visible in the units.
Depending on the size of the bed, you may want to add additional support beams underneath the plywood or MDF boards. Use brackets to provide extra stability and prevent sagging. You could also consider adding Velcro to the boards which can stick to the mattress and prevent it from slipping.
Step 6: Place the Mattress and Bedding
Once the bed frame is secure, place the mattress on top. Dress the bed with your favourite bedding and pillows to make it cosy and complete the transformation!
Step 7: Add your Décor to the shelves & Build your Fort
Now the bed has been made, it’s time to add the finishing touches to make it match your style! The best thing about this design is you can fill the Kallax units with whatever you like that matches you!
Don’t forget to grab the pillows and blankets to create a cosy little snug for the kids under the bed!
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About to take on a caulking job but not sure how to caulk? This caulking guide will give you some top tips (with some unusual tricks), to help you get on your way. Even if you have caulked before but often end up with air bubbles or lack neatness, this article is for you.
What’s more is you can find all your caulking equipment here at MAD4TOOLS.com, your one-stop shop for all Trade and DIY equipment. From essentials to specialised tools, you’ll find everything you need!
Now, let’s get down to business and stuck into this caulking guide.
ESSENTIALS FIRST
Choose the right caulk
This seems obvious, but many people are surprised when they find out how many variants of caulk there is to choose from! You’ll want to choose your caulk based on the material you’re sealing and the usual conditions of the area (does it tend to get humid, or hot?). Below are the different types of materials with recommendations of which caulk type to use in most scenarios.
Wood Surfaces
For wood surfaces, such as trim, baseboards, or window frames, use paintable acrylic latex caulk. It adheres well to wood and can be easily painted over.
Tile and Bathroom Surfaces
In areas with high moisture, like bathrooms or kitchens, choose a silicone caulk. Silicone offers excellent water resistance and prevents mould and mildew growth.
Metal Surfaces
For metal surfaces, including flashing, gutters, and metal trim, consider using a silicone or polyurethane caulk. These caulks adhere well to metal and can withstand exposure to the elements.
Concrete and Masonry Surfaces
Polyurethane caulk is a good choice for concrete and masonry surfaces. It’s durable, flexible, and can handle the movement often present in these types of surfaces.
Glass Surfaces
Silicone caulk is recommended for glass surfaces due to its strong adhesion, flexibility, and resistance to moisture. It’s commonly used for sealing glass windows and doors.
Vinyl or Plastic Surfaces
Look for a caulk labelled as suitable for vinyl or plastics. Acrylic latex or silicone caulk can work well for these surfaces.
Exterior Joints and Cracks
Polyurethane or hybrid caulks are great for exterior joints, cracks, and gaps. They offer excellent durability and can handle a wide range of weather conditions.
Expansion Joints
For expansion joints, consider using a self-levelling polyurethane caulk. This type of caulk is specifically designed to accommodate the movement of expansion joints.
Roof Surfaces
Roofing caulk, often asphalt-based or butyl rubber, is designed for sealing around roof vents, flashing, and other roofing components. Make sure to use a caulk formulated for roofing applications.
High-Temperature Surfaces
In areas with high heat, such as around stoves or fireplaces, choose a high-temperature caulk that can withstand the heat without degrading.
Concrete Cracks and Gaps
For filling larger cracks or gaps in concrete, a concrete patching caulk or a sealant specifically designed for concrete repair is recommended.
Submerged or Wet Environments
Underwater or wet environments, like pools or aquariums, require a specialized underwater caulk. These caulks are designed to adhere and perform well even when submerged.
TOP TIPS
Use sandpaper to make your nozzle opening
Place a sheet of sandpaper on something with a 90° angle and run your sealed caulk applicator along the joint four or five times. The sandpaper will wear down the tip to open up the nozzle just enough for neat caulking, and already sets the nozzle to the right angle for ease of use.
Mark an orientation line
Next, it’s really handy to add an orientation mark in line with the longest point of the tip. As shown below. This way, when you need to twist and turn to new positions after each corner, you can make sure the orientation line is at the right place for a clean strip of caulk as close to the joint as possible.
Use a dripless/flow stop caulking gun
It helps to have a caulking gun with a dripless (also called flow stop) feature. This will avoid additional caulk pressing out once you lift the gun off the joint. This will avoid blobs of caulk being formed when you do the next section and minimise wastage. Tajima caulking guns often offer this feature, such as this Heavy Duty 310ml Gun.
Use baking soda on slippery surfaces
If you need to caulk a bath or sink and the surface is very slippery, you can add baking powder to it to get more grip and precision for a neat result.
Apply caulk in layers for deep gaps
If you have a surface with deeper gaps (such as skirting boards or doors), it’s best to keep to the usual amount you lay on, and slowly build up the caulk to fill in the gaps properly. Remember, start with less and build up rather than going all in and ending up with a mess!
Ride the tip on the smoother surface
If you’re caulking a joint where each side is a different material, we recommend you run your caulking tip on the smoother surface. When applying caulking to the centre or the rougher texture of the surface, it can duplicate the imperfections and bumps, as well as occasionally magnifying them.
Start on opposing ends for long joints
When caulking a long strip, it’s unlikely that you’ll manage to do it all in one sweep. So instead of taking the tip off and starting again from where you left off, start on the opposite end and join up the two in the middle. This will allow for a neater finish and less air bubbles and bumps.
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Tiles can add elegance and functionality to any space, but the idea of drilling into them often leaves many feeling nervous. Fear not! In this blog, we will share with you our top tips to drilling into a tile and give you the confidence to tackle the tricky task like a pro!
You will need:
Power drill – Available HERE
New carbide-tipped or diamond-tipped drill bit – Available HERE
Safety goggles and dust mask – Available HERE
Tape measure – Available HERE
Water Cooling System (or sponge) – Available HERE
Optional: Drill guide – Available HERE
1. Measure the Tile
The first step when drilling a tile is to mark the spot where you want to drill. If you have attempted to drill through a tile before, you will know how slippery the surface can be. To prevent this, you can use masking tape which will create some tension and make it easier to drill. Just place the masking tape onto the wall before making your markings.
You can also use drill guides which can make this tricky task a lot easier. These are available on our site!
Shop HERE!
2. Start Drilling Through Tile
Now you have measured and marked your tiles, it’s time to start drilling!
Drilling tiles requires patience rather than going all in. Drilling too quickly can overheat the drill bit and may crack and ruin the tile. Instead, you should start drilling on a low speed, applying even pressure until you are through the top layer of glaze.
Once you have penetrated the initial layer, you can then gradually increase speed and pressure (not too much though)!
3. Keep Your Bits Cool
You need to keep your bits cool during the drilling process to prevent breakage. Do this by wetting a sponge and occasionally dabbing the drill bit, or holding it below the drill bit whilst drilling.
If you’re willing to spend a bit more money, you can always purchase a Multidrill Spraying System which will cool the bit down as you drill.
4. Change the Drill Bit (if required)
Once you hit the wall behind the tile, you may want to change the drill bit to one that is suitable to the material of the wall. Remember to go slow and steady so you don’t blow apart the wall; this can prevent the anchor or wall plug from holding properly.
Now you have all the tips, you’re all prepared to get decorating!
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Wondering what drill you need for your project, but don’t know where to start? The world of power tools can be overwhelming, especially when faced with a lot of new information. We’re here to make it easier for you to determine which electrical drill or driver you need for your job. Whether you’re a DIY enthusiast or tradesperson, this guide will be handy for getting a quick overview of the various power drills available.
Electric drills are one of the most valuable power tools in every tradesperson or DIYer’s toolbox. Ideal for boring holes, fixing screws and tightening nuts with speed and precision, they are an essential piece of kit. Already know what you need? Shop our drills on our website here.
Which Type of Drill is Best?
Whether you’re on the hunt for a high-specification power drill kit for work or just need an all-rounder for DIY projects, we have something for every task. Drills offer the option to change drill bits and speed to suit any job, making them an adaptable toolbox essential – but which type is right for you?
With so many options it can sometimes be confusing to know which one to choose. Take a look at our guide below to help you select the best one for the job.
Drill Drivers
This tool makes drilling holes in wood and metal easy, as well as loosening and tightening screws. They are usually cordless and relatively lightweight, making them easy to work with, even in tight spaces.
Ideal for a wide range of jobs, this tool will make assembling flat packed furniture or putting up shelves a breeze! More powerful models such as our 20v models are suitable for medium to heavy duty applications such as construction.
Combi Drills
A versatile piece of kit, these are similar to drivers but can be switched between hammer, drilling, and screwdriving mode to suit the task at hand. So, if you need to bore holes into masonry, metal or wood, or simply need to insert a screw, this tool does it all. This is the convenient option for DIY enthusiast as it can be used for a range of tasks.
Hammer Drills
Featuring an impact mechanism to create a hammering action, these are great for boring holes through hard materials such as concrete and stone, or thick wood. Offering the ultimate in versatility, the hammer action can be deactivated so you can use the tool as a conventional driver for simple tasks such as screwdriving.
Pillar Drills
Also known as a drill press, this is a stationary tool used for boring precise holes in materials. They come in two options – floor or bench mounted, to suit the task at hand. In addition to their precision capabilities, they are perfect for repetitive tasks as the tool can be pre-set to bore multiple holes at consistent depths and intervals.
Breaker Drills
These tools are designed for demolition jobs and can hammer through masonry, rock, concrete, paving, and asphalt with ease. With powerful motors and high impact rates, chiselling through tough material is quick and efficient.
Cordless or Corded?
Corded drills tend to be more powerful, so if you need high performance and power for heavy duty applications, a corded tool will meet your needs. The disadvantage of corded models is that you will need a mains power supply close by.
Many cordless tools have a professional rating such as 18v models. These are easier to transport and use in confined spaces, making them suitable for a wider range of tasks both inside and outside.
Which Drill Bit Do I Need?
There are so many drill bits available for all requirements, and variations within each type. Here are the main ones:
Twist Drill Bit
This is the most standard and widely used type of drill bit. It has a helical groove along its length that helps to remove debris as it cuts into the material. Twist drill bits are suitable for drilling holes in wood, plastic, metal, and most general-purpose applications.
Within the Twist Drill Bit type, you’ll find:
High-Speed Steel (HSS) Twist Drill Bit: Standard drill bit for general-purpose drilling in various materials.
Cobalt Drill Bit: Made from cobalt alloy, these are more durable and suitable for drilling harder materials like stainless steel.
Black Oxide Drill Bit: Coated with black oxide, these bits provide increased heat resistance and reduced friction.
Titanium Drill Bit: Coated with titanium nitride, these bits stay sharp longer and are suitable for drilling high-tensile materials.
Carbide-Tipped Drill Bit: Carbide tips offer excellent hardness and are ideal for drilling tough materials like concrete and masonry, and fragile materials like ceramic or porcelain tiles as carbide-tipped drill bits are less likely to cause cracking or chipping.
Brad Point Drill Bit
These drill bits are designed for woodworking. They have a sharp central point at the tip, which helps to position the bit accurately. Additionally, two cutting spurs around the central point create clean and precise holes in wood.
These are the types of Brad Point Drill bits:
Standard Brad Point Bit: Features a sharp point and two cutting spurs, providing clean and accurate holes in wood.
Lip and Spur Drill Bit: Similar to a brad point bit but with multiple spurs for faster drilling in wood.
Auger Drill Bit
Auger bits are ideal for drilling large and deep holes in wood. They have a spiral design and a wide flute that allows for efficient chip removal. These bits are commonly used for rough carpentry and construction tasks.
You can get:
Standard Auger Bit: Used for general woodworking tasks, these bits have a screw-like design for efficient chip removal.
Ship Auger Bit: Designed for rough carpentry, these bits have a wider flute and can drill larger holes.
Forstner Drill Bit
Forstner bits are excellent for drilling flat-bottomed holes in wood. They have a cylindrical shape with cutting edges all around the rim, allowing them to create smooth and clean holes without splintering.
There are different types:
Standard Forstner Bit: Offers a flat-bottomed hole with smooth sides, suitable for woodworking projects.
Sawtooth Forstner Bit: Features sawtooth-like cutting edges for faster cutting in softwoods.
Masonry Drill Bit
These bits are designed to drill into hard materials like brick, concrete, stone, and tiles. They have a tungsten carbide tip or insert that helps them handle the abrasiveness of masonry materials.
You have various bit type options, including:
Tungsten Carbide-Tipped Masonry Bit: Suitable for drilling into concrete, brick, stone, and other masonry materials.
Percussion Masonry Bit: Designed for use with hammer drills, offering faster drilling in masonry.
SDS Drill Bit
This type is used with SDS (Slotted Drive System) hammer drills, which are common in heavy-duty masonry applications. SDS drill bits have special grooves that lock into the drill chuck to transmit power more effectively and withstand the hammering action.
You can choose from different specialised bits:
SDS-Plus Drill Bit: Commonly used with SDS-Plus hammer drills for masonry drilling.
SDS-Max Drill Bit: For heavy-duty applications and larger holes, used with SDS-Max hammer drills.
Tile Drill Bit
Tile bits are similar to masonry bits, but they have a specialized carbide tip for drilling into ceramic tiles and glass without cracking or damaging the material.
Specialised bits can help you perfect certain jobs, such as:
Carbide-Tipped Tile Bit: Specifically designed to drill into ceramic tiles and glass without cracking or chipping.
Diamond-Tipped Tile Bit: a type of drill bit that uses industrial-grade diamonds as the cutting edge. Commonly used in the construction, mining, and jewellery industries, and on materials such as glass, ceramics, stone, tiles and concrete.
Step Drill Bit
Step bits have a conical shape with multiple diameter steps. They are used to gradually enlarge holes in thin materials like sheet metal and plastic.
You can get single flute and double flute step bits:
Single-Flute Step Bit: Provides multiple steps for drilling holes of varying diameters.
Double-Flute Step Bit: Similar to the single-flute version, but with two cutting edges for faster drilling.
Countersink Drill Bit
These bits are designed to create a tapered recess to accommodate the head of a screw, allowing it to sit flush with the material’s surface.
There are also variations to this drill bit, including:
Single-Flute Countersink Bit: Used to create a tapered recess for flathead screws.
Multi-Flute Countersink Bit: Provides a smoother finish and faster countersinking.
Hole Saw
A hole saw is a cylindrical saw with teeth, used to cut large-diameter holes in materials like wood, plastic, and metal. Hole saws are commonly used in plumbing and electrical work.
You can get different types of strengths for various materials:
Bi-Metal Hole Saw: Designed for cutting large-diameter holes in wood, plastic, and metal.
Carbide-Tipped Hole Saw: For heavy-duty cutting in abrasive materials.
We hope this answers your questions, but if not, feel free to leave a comment and we’ll get back to you! Visit www.mad4tools.com for great value trade & DIY equipment.
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Welcome to the ultimate door handle transformation guide!
Whether you’re a DIY newbie or a seasoned fixer-upper enthusiast, this blog is your trusty sidekick for mastering the art of replacing door handles. Get ready to turn your mundane entrances into statements of style and functionality!
You will need:
A new door handle and screws
Cordless screwdriver or a Phillip’s screwdriver
Doorstop or wedge for the door
Tape measure
Flathead screwdriver
(Don’t forget you can click the red text to shop all the equipment you need for your DIY projects!)
Step 1: Wedge the door
You’ll want the door to be stable when you are changing the handle. To prevent it swinging, wedge it open with a doorstop.
Step 2: Remove Screws from the Handle
The first step in changing your handle is to remove the current handle. Do this by unscrewing the screws on the handle.
The screws may be hidden underneath a handle cover plate. If this is the case, simply first unscrew the cover if it’s a screw cover, or use a flathead screwdriver to remove covers that are clipped on.
Step 3: Remove the handles
Now the screws are removed and the handles are loose, you can remove both the handles from the door by sliding them out of the door.
Step 4: Remove the inner plate and latch screws
If you are replacing the entire handle mechanism, unscrew the screws on the inner plate (on the inside edge of the door). Take out the screws and remove the latch plate and door latch mechanism. You should now be left with just the holes in the door.
Attaching the new handle
Step 5: Measure the door and pick correct sized handle
Use a tape measure to measure the door to ensure the new handle is a correct size to line up with the existing holes. We recommend using a similar shape handle to cover up any marks or screw holes that have been left on the door from your previous handle.
Step 6: Insert the new latch
Place the new latch into the side of the door until it is flush against the door. Ensure the smooth angled part of the latch faces the same direction that the door closes. Insert the lock and mechanisms through the door and make sure they line up with the latch plate and screw in place.
Step 7: Put the new cover plates in place
Slide the new cover plates over the inner plates and attach all required screws. Ensure the handle is working before shutting the door.
And there you have it, you’ve officially levelled up your DIY game and transformed your doors into gateways of greatness!
Don’t forget to check out our other DIY tips and guides on our blog. Why not also take a look at our site for some incredible deals on workwear and tools!
Visit www.mad4tools.com for great value trade & DIY equipment.
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Feeling hot and bothered on the work site? Depending on your trade, you might want to stick to trousers and knee pads all year round, making it difficult to remain cool and comfortable during warmer days, or maybe you just don’t want your legs to be on show. This is why we have curated a list of our best lightweight and breathable work trousers for summer. Read on to find a great solution to stay comfortable, even on hot days.
MASCOT Customized Lightweight Trade Work Trousers
These are ideal for hot days, as they have a light and stretchy fabric. They also offer knee pad inserts, reinforced seams, plenty of pockets and even clips to add extra holster pockets for extra storage space.
Available in Black, Navy and White. Sizes 27-52.5in waist.
From £65.16 – Shop here:
Black: https://www.mad4tools.com/mascot-customized-lightweight-trade-work-trousers-black-various-sizes
Navy: https://www.mad4tools.com/mascot-customized-lightweight-trade-work-trousers-navy-blue-various-sizes
White: https://www.mad4tools.com/mascot-customized-lightweight-trade-work-trousers-white-various-sizes
Scruffs Ripstop Trade Work Trousers
The ripstop fabric on these trade trousers allows for not only more durability, but also for a lighter fabric that will help you avoid sweating too much on site this summer. You’ll also have access to a large number of pockets and storage features, without forgetting the knee pad pockets!
Available in Black. Sizes 28-38in waist.
Now Only £25.95 – Shop here: https://www.mad4tools.com/scruffs-ripstop-trade-work-trousers-with-multiple-knee-pad-pockets-black-various-sizes
Portwest PW3 Lightweight Stretch Trousers
Made with innovative lightweight stretch fabric, the PW3 work trousers are great for staying cool and comfortable on hot days. The fabric is also rated 40+ UPF, blocking out 98% of UV rays and protecting your skin from the sun!
Available in Black. Sizes 28-48in waist.
Now Only £30 – Shop here: https://www.mad4tools.com/portwest-pw3-work-trouser-navy-black-various-sizes
Tuffstuff Elite Ripstop Trade Work Trousers
Made with ripstop fabric, the Tuffstuff Elite Ripstop Trade Trousers are durable and lightweight, keeping you safe and comfortable on site all year round. The waistband is also adjustable, allowing for extra space and comfort when going for a few pints after work!
Available in Black and Sand Brown. Sizes 28-44in waist.
Now Only £24.62 – Shop here:
Black: https://www.mad4tools.com/tuffstuff-elite-ripstop-trade-work-trousers-black-various-sizes
Sand Brown: https://www.mad4tools.com/tuffstuff-elite-ripstop-trade-work-trousers-sand-brown-various-sizes
Regatta Professional Pro Utility Work Trousers
For a simple yet useful design, you can opt for the Regatta Professional Utility Work Trousers. They are made from sustainable Coolweave cotton for a cool and refreshed feel. The cargo pockets give you space for all your essentials.
Available in Black. Sizes 30-46in waist.
Now Only £38.25. Shop here: https://www.mad4tools.com/regatta-professional-pro-utility-work-trousers-black-various-sizes
MASCOT Ultimate Stretch Trade Work Trousers
If you want to go a step further for your comfort, you can try out MASCOT’s Ultimate Stretch Trade Work Trousers. These are incredibly lightweight with a stretch fabric that will not only keep you cool, but is also durable enough to withstand tough jobs. Featuring water-repellent finish, ventilated kneepad pockets, and reinforced seams to help them last a long while.
Available in Black and Navy. Sizes 27-52.5in waist.
Now Only £106.66. Shop here:
Black: https://www.mad4tools.com/brands/mascot/mascot-ultimate-stretch-trade-work-trousers-black-various-sizes
Navy: https://www.mad4tools.com/brands/mascot/mascot-ultimate-stretch-trade-work-trousers-dark-navy-blue-various-sizes
Ox Ripstop Trade Work Trousers
Ox have never disappointed with their products, and their Ripstop Trade Work Trousers are one of our top picks! The ripstop fabric is extremely lightweight, but also durable, with extra reinforcements. They feature a high waistband which is great for jobs that require a lot of bending down. They have reinforced kneepad pockets too, to avoid quick ripping due to repeated friction with the floor.
Available in Grey and Brown. Sizes 30-38in waist.
Now Only £42.75. Shop here:
Grey: https://www.mad4tools.com/ox-ripstop-trade-work-trousers-graphite-grey-with-multiple-pockets-various-sizes
Brown: https://www.mad4tools.com/ox-ripstop-trade-work-trousers-brown-with-multiple-pockets-various-sizes
Caterpillar Dynamic Work Trousers
These incredibly versatile trousers are ideal for work and leisure. They are made with a lightweight fabric, oxford canvas knee overlays to avoid rips, and an elasticated waistband with drawcord.
The crotch gusset allows optimal movement and the pockets offer storage space for your tools, including a back ruler pocket. Perfect for summer days, whether it’s at the work site or beer garden. This is also a great work trouser option for DIY enthusiasts and lighter work.
Available in Khaki, Camo and Black. Sizes 30-42in waist.
Now From £49.15. Shope here:
Khaki: https://www.mad4tools.com/caterpillar-dynamic-trade-work-trousers-khaki-various-sizes
Camo: https://www.mad4tools.com/caterpillar-dynamic-slim-fit-cargo-work-trousers-camouflage-various-sizes
Black: https://www.mad4tools.com/caterpillar-dynamic-cargo-work-trousers-black-various-sizes
We hope this article has helped you find a good pair of work trousers to help cope with hot weather!
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Welcome to July’s Newsletter!
July has been a busy month for the industry with lots of changes underway. Some of the major headlines this month are HMRC has reformed the R&D tax-credit scheme, and the OGP are still finding state-owned buildings built with life-threatening materials. In other news, we have started our Bundle Deals sale with some very special prices on essential items. Read on more to get your monthly construction news snapshot!
INDUSTRY NEWS
R&D TAX-CREDIT REFORMS: CAN YOU STILL CLAIM IT?
R&D tax credits were introduced by the Labour Government in 2000, to incentivise contractors to invest in R&D (research & development) with the potential to drive innovation and growth. This give contractors the option to claim a refund on part of their R&D costs. However, this incentive has been underused by the industry since its introduction, mostly due to a lack of knowledge about it. It has also been found out that of those who have been claiming refunds, some were abusing the scheme and committed fraud through it.
For this reason, HMRC has reformed the scheme with tighter rules. Experts are concerned this will deter contractors from making claims and investing in R&D.
It’s not all negative though, as they have also added emerging technologies to the list of acceptable claims, such as cloud computing.
Experts advise contractors to look into the R&D tax-credit reforms to see what they might be eligible to claim for.
THE HUNT FOR DANGEROUS RAAC CONTINUES…
The Office of Government Property (OGP) has been hunting down state-owned buildings that have been built with dangerous reinforced autoclaved aerated concrete (RAAC). It is reported they found a further 22 NHS buildings that are constructed with this collapse-prone material.
This material, widely used in the mid 1960’s to mid 1980’s is now reported to be life-expired and liable to collapse.
Following recent findings, junior health and social care minister Will Quince said “there are 22 NHS bodies with RAAC-plank construction in the whole or a significant part of their estate”.
The Department of Health and Social Care said five hospitals at risk are being prioritised for re-construction. Their goal is to eradicated all RAAC material in NHS estates by 2035
MAD4TOOLS NEWS
BUNDLE DEALS IN FULL SWING
We have introduced a new sale to help you get through this tough economic climate.
We know you tend to need workwear on a regular basis with being so active on projects and jobs.
Our Bundle Deals sale is here to help you plan in advance and save on the long-term, by buying in bulk to get your essential items for a lot less (for some offers, it nearly equates to buy one get one free!).
So, head on over to our Bundle Deals sale to find yourself a bargain – hurry while stock lasts!
PRODUCT OF THE MONTH – Scruffs Ripstop Trade Work Trousers & Cargo Shorts
Talking about Bundle Deals… 👀
This super handy trousers and shorts bundle will keep you going throughout the seasons!
Introducing the Scruffs Ripstop Trade Work Trousers & Cargo Shorts – a tough yet lightweight fabric that will withstand the hardships of the job while keeping you comfortable all day – that’s summer sorted 👌
NOW ONLY £46.99 – Shop Now
TIPS & TRICKS
HOW TO REMOVE A STRIPPED SCREW?
Have a stubborn screw that you just can’t get out and is now stripped?
We have 6 tips on how you can remove your stripped screws that you can try out, using a range of solutions from common household items to specialised equipment.
EXTRA TIPS FOR YOU: how to avoid stripping screws
1. Use the right sized screwdriver bit
2. Align your screwdriver to your nail straight
3. Apply sufficient pressure to avoid slips
DID YOU KNOW?
Plumbers are the most searched for tradesperson in the UK, followed by locksmiths and electricians.
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Summer is a perfect time to start bigger outdoors project that you can enjoy across the seasons for years to come. One of the biggest DIY projects one can take is to build a treehouse. They can come in all sizes, but we will focus this ‘How To’ guide on a small treehouse – the kind you’d make for your kids in the backyard.
While building a treehouse can seem like a challenging project to tackle, it is actually not so difficult once you follow a clear step-by-step guide. This article is made just for that, and will help you successfully build a house hidden in the trees that will last for years. Ready for it? Let’s go! And don’t forget about the comment section where you can ask your questions!
Step 1: Plan and Design
Determine the location: Choose a suitable tree (or multiple) with sturdy branches – consider factors like accessibility and proximity to other structures.
Measure and sketch: Take measurements of the tree’s trunk, branches, and available space. Sketch a rough design to visualize the treehouse structure. You can also make a blueprint with instructions on each step of construction.
Step 2: Gather Materials and Tools
Wood: Purchase pressure-treated or rot-resistant wood for the frame, floor, walls, and roof.
Hardware: Gather screws, nails, brackets, and other fasteners required for the build.
Plywood: Get plywood sheets for the floor and walls.
Tools: Collect essential tools such as a saw, drill, hammer, level, measuring tape, and safety equipment like goggles and gloves.
Step 3: Prepare the Tree
Clean the area: Remove any debris or branches around the tree to create a safe working space. You can use a chainsaw for thick branches, or a hedge trimmer for thin debris.
Check the health of the tree: Ensure the tree is healthy, with no signs of disease or damage, as we want our treehouse to be steadily supported for years.
Trim branches: Trim any branches that may interfere with the construction or pose a safety hazard.
Step 4: Build the Platform
Install support beams: Attach horizontal support beams to the tree trunk using brackets or through-bolts.
Frame the platform: Build a rectangular frame using pressure-treated wood, ensuring it aligns with the support beams.
Attach joists: Install perpendicular joists within the frame, spaced approximately 16 inches apart.
Add plywood flooring: Secure plywood sheets to the top of the frame, creating a sturdy platform.
Step 5: Construct the Walls
Measure and cut wall studs: Determine the wall height and cut vertical studs accordingly.
Assemble the walls: Attach the studs between top and bottom horizontal plates, creating rectangular wall frames.
Install plywood walls: Secure plywood sheets to the outside of the wall frames, ensuring they align properly.
Step 6: Build the Roof
Install roof beams: Attach angled beams to the top of the walls, extending from one side to the other.
Add roof rafters: Install shorter beams perpendicular to the roof beams, creating a supportive framework.
Attach plywood roofing: Secure plywood sheets to the top of the rafters, covering the roof frame.
Step 7: Finishing Touches
Install windows and doors: Cut openings in the wall frames and attach windows and a door, if desired.
Add a railing: Install a safety railing around the platform using additional lumber or prefabricated railing kits.
Apply finishes: Sand any rough edges and apply weatherproof paint or stain to protect the wood.
Add accessories: Enhance the treehouse with ladders, rope swings, or other fun features.
Remember to consult local regulations and seek any necessary permits before starting your project. Additionally, prioritize safety throughout the construction process, ensuring the treehouse is structurally sound and secure. Enjoy the process and have fun building your small treehouse!
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Hot work site? No problem!
Beat the heat and keep your cool with these essential tips!
1. START EARLY
It is recommended to stay out of the sun between 10am and 3pm when the sun and air temperature is at its warmest.
Start your day earlier so you will be finished earlier and hopefully spend limited time outdoors during the hottest hours of the day.
2. STAY HYDRATED
Drink plenty of water throughout the day every 15-20 minutes. Cool water should be your main source of hydration but sports drinks can also be a good option for restoring electrolytes.
As much as it pains us to say, avoid coffee, alcohol and fizzy drinks as they can cause you to become dehydrated.
3. DRESS FOR SUCCESS
Lightweight and loose fitted clothing is essential for the warm weather. Choose breathable and moisture wicking clothing which will absorb the sweat off your body.
Check out our workwear range HERE to find plenty of lightweight and cool clothing to keep you comfortable and safe!
4. SEEK SHADE
This isn’t always easy when working outdoors, but taking frequent breaks is important to avoid heat-related illnesses.
When you are feeling overheated, take at least a 5 minute break in a shaded area to rehydrate.
5. INVEST IN A FAN
Of course, the biggest life saver of all is a fan or air conditioning unit!
Check out our cooling products on our site HERE!
Don’t forget the extension lead (here!) for when you are further away from a socket but still need the fan on you!
What would you like to hear from us next? Leave a comment 👇
Visit www.mad4tools.com for great value trade & DIY equipment.
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